-
HOW TO SUBSCRIBE:
-
1. Subscribe in reader
2. Follow SQUA.RE on Twitter
3. Join SQUA.RE on Facebook
4. Join the SQUA.RE Newsletter
We promise not to share your email with anyone.
Loading ...Click here for SQUA.RE TV
Standing out in the saturated world of fashion is not easy, but few have the capable talents to do so. I am glad to share with you one of the up-and-coming shining stars of fashion from the Middle East, NOA COUTURE by Saudi Arabian designer Nawaf Saud. His latest collection is shown for the time exclusively on SQUA.RE.
Givenchy Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010-2011: “The Human Anatomy”
The genius of Riccardo Tisci’s dark imagination is that, not in any occasion, does it fail to impress or surprise. Leaving his usual gothic formula behind, For Givenchy Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010, Tisci was inspired by Frida Kahlo, and her three obsessions: love, religion, and the human anatomy. In the painstakingly detailed artwork of the dresses, the human skeleton is present in form and silhouette, with Chantilly lace, ceramic, tulle, porcelain, ostrich features and baboon fur as some of the material the has been used .
In keeping with the school of modern Goth designer, the half Persian half German newcomer, Boris Bidjan Saberi mixed the aforementioned influence with an engineered industrial aesthetic that sets him apart from the rest. His latest Spring/Summer 2011 collection has a lost-traveler, nomadic feel to it with soft touches and draped jersey, adding a sense of mystery to his man of the season.
The legacy of Maison Martin Margiela will no doubt live on even without him, his impact on the most creative minds in the industry is priceless (check the latest Raf Simons collection), and current design team who took over since Margiela’s departure are highly equipped to carry on that legacy. For the Spring/Summer 2011 men’s collection, live models showcased the latest in deconstructed menswear in front of a screen playing a previous recording of them on the street in the same outfit, as if being directed for a photoshoot. The collection (as the presentation) was fresh and masterfully clever as only MMM can do it. Featuring minimal pieces and mixed with some experimental ones and loose trousers, all in proper earth tones.
Going for the nomadic traveler, Damir Doma’s man seems to encounter winter even in the Spring. The collections seemed heavy for the season, yet beautiful in every sense of the word. The colors were dark, styles were slightly dramatic but that effect was restrained due to the monochromatic nature of the collection, very few colors integrated. And the shoes were just fantastic, especially when paired with socks.
Raf Simons, one of the most brilliant designers today, celebrated the 15th anniversary of his label. In 1991, he was inspired by the first fashion show he ever attended, and it by Martin Margiela, and he decide to become a fashion designer right then and there. He is, as influential as Margiela ever was. For this collection, Simmons mixes immense tailoring with contrasting affects, such as sleeveless tailored pieces with ultra loose pants, latex, very long inviting zippers and androgynous shorts with ties. All leading to a very simple two button black suit at the end to remind the world of his true brilliance and creativity.
Kris van Assche continues his superb and beautifully simple designs with a collection inspired by men who work with their hands, men who paint and fix things! Of course there is lots of black and white, but the highlights were the monochromatic gray looks and the paint splattered on white pants and sweatshirts. It was a relaxed and sexy collection (two words often associated with Kris van Assche’s collections).
Rick Owens‘ collections are always an evolvement of its predecessor, thus there are no radical changes, but more a sense of advancement. With a pious influence for his men’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection, there were asymmetric tank tops, drop crotch pants and shorts, amazing sleeveless leather hoodies and “aggressive” footwear, all accompanied by a blistering techno soundtrack. “I wanted severe clothes made from beautiful fabrics” said Owens (which I believe is a direct quote from the Rick Owens monastic book).
Designer Youn Chong Bak paid extra attention to menswear classics with a twisted touch, that touch which always made the Smalto man stand out from the rest. Those twists were in the color combinations, earthy hues, denim-like colors, and those small little details on blazers, vets and coats in terms of cuts. The collection spoke of acute Spring elegance and luxury, while in keeping with contemporary trends.
One thing you can always count on from Thom Browne (beside shrunken suits) is a great presentation. This time, at the headquarters of France’s Communist Party in Paris, designed by Oscar Niemeyer, astronauts walked in and took off their suits to reveal Thom Browne’s signature shrunken suits, consisting of blazers, bermudas and knee-high socks. The silhouette was consistent throughout the collection, but the fabrics changed dramatically, featuring preppy checks and stripes, sequins and embroidered sharks. And as WWD puts: “The concept was somewhat convoluted, but Browne’s vision — a stone-faced mockery of midcentury American elites — was crystal clear.”
Paul Smith, has always had an obsession with the rock music lifestyle of the 60s and 70s, with bands such as The Beatles and The Rolling Stones are often used as references for his collections, mixing that with his great heritage of superb tailoring. For Spring/Summer 2011, Paul Smith added a slight touch of glam to his rockers, with touches of silk, floral prints, unconstructed jackets and blazers, skinny pants, polka dotted trousers, and hues of purple, along a backdrop of dramatic Renaissance-style cosmic illustrations.
The ever romantic approach of Ann Demeulemeester has been replaced with a clinical, more experimental emotion. Turning a collection of flawless, pure white styles, in asymmetrical and lean silhouettes, with a slight military influence, which was subdued in the midst of all the whiteness. All of a sudden the entire collection repeated itself look for look, but this time in black, with leather replacing what was cotton. “I wanted to see what would happen,” said Demeulemeester about her experiment, “things look quite different. It’s a different emotion.” It was a beautiful (experiment) collection to say the least, however, there still were those hints of romanticism Demeulemeester is well known for.
Colors took central stage at Petar Petrov’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection, from dark shades of blue (on trend of Spring/Summer 2011) to beautiful pastels. A slightly boxier silhouette dominated the collection, hinting at a relaxed Spring, with a carefree, sexy attitude (implied by the models’ smiling faces). The simplicity of the designs and loose cuts certainly complimented the monochromatic and color combinations styles.
Dries van Noten knows sophistication and always displays a great deal of it in every collection (this also applies to his women’s collections), the surprise for his men’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection was it had a hard edge to it, a punk edge (the acid wash effect), but of course, it was hidden, and quite subtle actually, and mixed with his usual flair of exquisite tailoring and suiting. The hard edge was quite a shock, but a welcomed one to his usual superb gentile implication.
Christophe Decarnin draws inspiration from American high schools for the Balmain man, in varsity jackets and mascot t-shirts, with a slight punk edge to it (without being too cocky). And as the WWD puts it, “aristocratic punk”, sums up the whole feel. The youthful influence (like in the Balmain women’s collections) is very obvious and celebrated throughout. I am personally in love with the trench coat and leather bomber jacket. It’s a progress from his previous men’s collection, and welcomed one.
