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For Fall/Winter 2010, Karl Lagerfeld imported giant icebergs courtesy of Sweden for the Chanel prêt-a-porter collection, an extravagant show it was. Models strutting through icebergs on a sea of melted ice in furry coats, furry boats, furry bags and furry pants, there was more fur than any other Karl Lagerfeld show, but this time, it was faux… Supermodels and muses to the Kaiser; Freja Beha Erichsen, Lara Stone, Coco Rocha, Iris Strubegger, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Baptiste Giabiconi strutting in what Coco Chanel would probably wear in the North Pole, mixed with Chanelian chic ice jewellery, ice bags, and chicest ivory dresses.
The last collection by the late legend is a spectacle of absolute craftsmanship, reminding us of how the world of arts will miss such immense talent. Held at a private location for a select few, the show was a tribute in mourning for Alexander McQueen, models wearing the theatrics of utter genius to slow operatic music. Each dress was more spectacular than the last, filled with beautiful details and particular, brilliant tailoring. Each dress looked like a canvas of Renaissance painting; McQueen drew influence from Byzantine art, paintings by the Old Masters, Angels and Medieval beauty, one particular draped dress featured a print of painting with angels which was purely magnificent, all leading to the stunning dress at the very end, with gold statuesque feathered coat… Breath-takingly mesmerizing.
As Nicole Phelps of Style.com puts it, Viktor & Rolf are the performance artists of the fashion world. And I strongly agree. For Fall/Winter 2010 the spectacle was a total masterful performance, titled “Glamour Factory“, featured great clothes. The spectacle starring supermodel Kristen McMenamy, surrounded by the duo who systematically undressed her, layer by layer, then redressed other models waiting to wear the discarded clothes down the catwalk, then until she in a nude body suite, the duo attempts the reverse, dressing Kristen with the new clothes the models are wearing, all for the audience to witness. There were various crystal encrusted dresses and outwear, in black and gray, with a concentration on glamorous sporty looks. “This time around, we want to show that something can be both wearable and extreme at the same time. It goes beyond a mere idea; it is literally ready for production” said the designers.
Roland Mouret, the master of formfitting dresses that make women quiver is absolute desire, is back for Fall/Winter 2010 with a twist from the usual. For Fall, Mouret retained his sense of formfitting dresses, added origami drapes in all the alluring places, he concentrated a bit more on outerwear with the occasional fur an hooded pieces, all in that RM-glam way that make women love him so much: the “Subtle Sexy Sophistication” affect.
While it may not make sense to everyone (or anyone), Rick Owens described his collection as “a sect of nuns, glamorous nuns, with inner discipline”, and I will take his fashion-sect-priest word for it. The collection was classic Rick Owens, which will make his cult of to-die-for fans unnervingly delirious, especially those who adore fur in its trendiest, Rick Owens‘ Fall/Winter 2010 collection feature kangaroo and mink on asymmetrical jersey skirts, biker jackets and hoodies.
In collaboration with Isabelle Garnerone, Editor-in-Chief, SQUA.RE Watches
The sideward gaze, swirls of smoke, the double-breasted jacket with top few buttons undone on impeccably tailored shirts, the white Repetto jazz shoes, the Breitling Navitimer watch, the Van Cleef and Arpels signature cologne and the unfailing stubble — the very name of Serge Gainsbourg conjures up such images of the stylish French icon.
Alber Elbaz recently returned from Africa (his birthplace), for a post he will be taking on soon as a UNICEF Ambassador, mix that experience with his traditional Lanvin draping, chunky jewellery and luxurious fabrics and you basically got the ingredients of his triumphant Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Shoulders got plenty of attention in this collection; they came in various forms and shapes and in diverse fabrics from outwear to dresses. Fabrics include jersey (in trend for Fall/Winter 2010), gold and green lame, and some feathers here and there. The general vibe in this collection seemed to incorporate more masculine elements than previous collections, an attractive element we might add. “Women ask for masculine tailoring, but they want to feel fragile. They want daywear, but buy evening. I designed a whole lot of draped things, but then it looked like too much. An overdose of fashion” said Alber Elbaz of his prevailing passion to satisfy women’s needs.
“I was working on something domestic. Casual things mixed with classic. And a kind of rigidity,” said Nicolas Ghesquière; the mastermind behind Balenciaga, and wizard of scientific, computer-generated fashion possibilities of the 21st century. Nicolas Ghesquière continued his technical genius for Fall/Winter 2010 with a collection of severe complexity in every look, showcasing the possibilities of where the future of womenswear might go in the near future, combined with traditional Parisienne femininity and chic, and as always, a fantastical collection of footwear. Nicolas Ghesquière is a leader, and many are following.
The king of contemporary Goth fashion, Gareth Pugh showed a softer collection than his usual outings, which was an indication from his previous collection. For Fall/Winter 2010, the British designer opted for neoprene-leather as his favorite material to work with, adding a definite bold edge to each look for both men and women, mixed with asymmetrical lines and silhouettes, A-line cuts, and later topped with draped chains, all of which won’t disappoint Pugh followers. It would be a safe assumption that this collection might be his most wearable yet in its entirety. Pugh restrained his sartorial talents to his signature black and gray tones, beautifully.
Chivalry in Cannes is a live Twitter-based and blog-based report from Cannes with Chivas, partner of the Cannes Film Festival. Each episode takes you a step deeper into real-life acts of Chivalry in Cannes and the world of film.
Christian Sinicropi is the Chef to the Stars. Leading all prestigious restaurants in the Martinez Hotel, Christian is not only the Executive Chef, he is an artist and his cuisine is the fruit of years of experience in France’s top kitchens, including Alain Ducasse’s. Christian is the only twice-Michelin-starred chef in the city. At the Festival, he is responsible for everything from the Jury’s first official dinner night through to the unbelievable daily schedule of his cuisine: serving 1,000 people a day, including many of the stars attending.
The latest Fall/Winter 2010 collection by French designer, Anne Valérie Hash is a stunning rendition of utter femininity and sheer elegance in every look. The designer used subtle influenced from a typical male wardrobe, such as the cut of trousers, and added feminine elements to elaborate a brilliant contrast with beautiful sheer fabrics and slouchy looks.
Have you missed the WHY launch? Ever since the launch of this Wally-Hermès collaboration in October, we have been avidly following such good taste and avant-garde grandeur. Here is a sight into the yacht that is inspired by the hulls from the Greek age, a yacht that looks like a dream concept but is a whole new reality. And this is not only because it is a living space, similar to a small private island on the sea, but because it can cross the Atlantic four times with no refueling, and is the most environmentally friendly a yacht can be today. Since its launch last Fall all the way to the recent Abu Dhabi Yacht show this past month, the WHY yacht has been proving its timeless and limitless potential.
WHY Wally Hermès Yacht - View from Behind
Dries van Noten knows what being effortlessly elegant is always about, he is a master at mixing regular basic pieces with incredibly luxurious pieces at such an easy, for Fall/Winter 2010 he did just that. Incorporating key tailored pieces from your typical menswear and making them fit perfectly in a slouchy and incredibly chic and Parisienne way for women. One of the best looks were oversized sweaters on top of beautiful printed dresses for evening; the ultimate luxury in as casual as can be. Just like his Spring/Summer 2010 collection, this one is flawless.
SQUA.RE Creative Director Daniel Scheffler attends the conference as Design Critic.
‘Since 1995, Design Indaba has been committed to a vision that is built on the belief that creativity will fuel an economic revolution in South Africa.
As such, Design Indaba is a celebration of design in a country iconic of the triumph of the human spirit. By attracting the world’s brightest talent, Design Indaba has become a respected institution on the creative landscape and one of the few global events that celebrates all the creative sectors - graphic design, advertising, film, music, fashion design, industrial design, architecture, craft, visual art, new media, publishing, broadcasting and performing arts sector.’ Read the rest of this entry »
Women’s creative director, Giampiero Arcese of Brioni, exhibited his utter reliability on luxury sartorialism with his often subtle ethnic touches, except for Fall/Winter 2010 there was slight element of surprise, the collection seemed a bit futuristic, not entirely though. Futuristic in tailoring, yet ultra feminine in “restraint” draping with a refreshing dash of sporadic colors. Satin, suede and wool all looked impeccably lavish in a very subtle and tailored way, as one would expect from Brioni, with the occasional Mongolian wool trim on coats (in trend for Fall/Winter 2010) and fabulous shoes.
Brioni women by Giampiero Arcese has become a favorite synonym with elegance.
